ALPINIST Jost Kobusch has arrived at base camp today as he prepares to embark on one of the most dangerous expeditions in the climbing world – reaching the peak of Mount Everest in winter without oxygen.
The 32-year-old German, who has been climbing since the age of 12, is moving on to the world’s highest mountain after a successful ascent of the 6,476m Mera peak as an acclimatisation exercise with a group of fellow mountaineers.
Kobusch has attempted the climb twice before in 2019 and 2021, but was beaten back by the gruelling conditions which he regarded as ‘learning exercises’.
“This winter was also not only very windy, but also much colder than others,” he said in 2022 following the second attempt.
“You could feel that even here in Kathmandu. I used electric heating soles for the first time and found that under certain circumstances it works well or not.
“Overall, I learned a lot about the possibilities and limitations of equipment. It gave me new perspectives and a lot for strategic planning.”
Of the 34 expeditions to have set out with the aim of making the winter ascent, only five have succeeded, with just 15 climbers placing their feet at the summit.
It is certainly not without risk, and at least seven climbers have perished in the December 21 to March 22 window. In December 1982, Yasuo Kato – a legendary Japanese climber with a huge amount of Everest experience – managed to reach the summit alone, but died from exposure together with his supporting teammate Toshiaki Kobayashi as they attempted to shelter from hurricane-force winds and temperatures of -43C.
Polish mountaineers Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki are credited with making the first winter summiting of Everest on February 17 1980, with the use of supplemental oxygen.
On December 22 1987, Nepal’s Ang Rita Sherpa – supported by South Korean Young-Ho Heo – was the first to make the winter climb without oxygen.
READ MORE: The men who reached the top of the world
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